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When curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. But, tucked high among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This honour has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” states a family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest shop earning such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary achievement.